Build your own poker table! My poker table plans show you how to build a poker table.
How To Build Your Own Poker Table
If you have ever wanted to build your own poker table this is the how to build a poker table website you have been waiting for! I have provided step by step poker table plans, with photographs to help you build a quality poker table that will provide you years of enjoyment!
Designing Your Table:
First you must Choose the size of poker table you want to build. Many of my customers want a table that is 8 feet long and 4 feet wide that can fit 10 or 12 people, including a dealer, comfortably. Many customers with a dedicated room for a poker table, or bars that hold tournaments also prefer this size. However, if you are the weekend player, and you need to store your table out of sight, you may want to build a table 7 feet long and 44 inches wide.
Once you have made a decision on the size of poker table you want to build, you will need to determine the radius of the ends. For the standard circle ends, The width of your table divided by two will determine your radius. A 44" wide table will have a 22" Radius and a 48" table will have a 24" radius.
The following poker table plans will guide you step by step to build your own poker table that seats eight with a racetrack and jumbo drop in drink cup holders measuring 44" wide by 84" long
Materials required:
2 each sheets of 3/4"X4'X8' plywood (one sheet must have a sanded finish or choose Maple, Birch, Oak,etc.)
1 each sheet of 5/8"X4'X8' of wood for the infield surface. This can be a less expensive piece of wood. This will give you an 1/8" higher infield surface. You can choose a 1/2"X4'8' if you want a completely flush playing surface between the infield surface and the racetrack.
1 Pair of folding table replacement legs.
1 Small box of 1 1/4" wood screws.
1 Small box of 1" wood screws.
16 each 1/4" "T Nuts" (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1" X 1/4" bolts (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1/4" washers (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1/4" loc washers (used to install the table legs)
2 Each 6" handles (if you plan on installing cup holders you will not need handles)
1 30"X80" sheet of Volara closed cell foam (used for infield cushion) Automotive headliner may be used instead Volara if you want a softer, less dense playing surface.
1 piece of 30"X80" of cloth (used for the infield cloth) AVOID FELT! The cards will not slide. Felt will ball up very quick and become unsightly.
3 yards of vinyl (for the rail covering)
1 1"X4'X8' sheet of high density foam (used for rail padding) You can use a 1"X2'X7' if you cut it into three 8" strips.
Consumables Required:
1 each can of spray adhesive (I prefer 3M Super 77)
1 each bottle of wood glue
Small box of 5/16" staples
Sand Paper: 180, 220, and 320 grit
1 each tack cloth
1 pint of black (ebony) stain
1 pint of stain, your choice of color
1 quart of clear finish
5 pack of razor blades
2 china bristle paint brushes
1 quart of mineral spirits
1 roll of quality paper towels
1 bag of cotton cloths (for polishing)
Carpenters Pencil
Tools Required:
3/8 Chuck Drill
Drill bit set and screw tips
1/2" Chuck Drill and 3 5/8" Hole Saw (for jumbo drop in drink cup holders)
Jig Saw
Circular Saw
Router with a 1" outside round bit
Tape Measure
Chalk Line, Level or Straight Edge
Square
Clamps
Saw Horses
Electric Sander
Staple Gun or Fine Wire Tacker
Shears
Belt Sander
Hammer
WARNING: Always use proper safety gear while using tools and chemicals including but not limited to safety goggled, gloves hearing protection, face shield, respirator, etc,
WARNING: Always follow the tooling manufacture recommendations and chemical company's safety precautions
This is a simple procedure to build your own poker table. If you have any questions during your build, please email me at thebert@timscustompokertables.com and I will be happy to help. Also, I would like to hear any feedback and see some pictures of your completed table after using these instructions.
Thank You for visiting our poker table plans website.
Tim Hebert.
Scroll down through the complete poker table plans or click on the following links to go directly to the specific task. Use the back button to come back here.
Designing Your Table
Materials Required
Consumables Required
Tools Required
Drawing and Cutting Your Table
Marking the Inside Diameter of the Racetrack
Marking and Cutting the holes for the Drink Cup Holders
Thank You for visiting our poker table plans website.
Tim Hebert.
Scroll down through the complete poker table plans or click on the following links to go directly to the specific task. Use the back button to come back here.
Designing Your Table
Materials Required
Consumables Required
Tools Required
Drawing and Cutting Your Table
Marking the Inside Diameter of the Racetrack
Marking and Cutting the holes for the Drink Cup Holders
Marking and Cutting the Base Sheet 4" piece for the Rail
Cutting out the Inside Diameter of the Racetrack
Marking and Cutting the Racetrack 1 1/2" piece for the Rail
Marking and Cutting the Infield Sheet
Rail Construction
Cutting out the Inside Diameter of the Racetrack
Marking and Cutting the Racetrack 1 1/2" piece for the Rail
Marking and Cutting the Infield Sheet
Rail Construction
Designing Your Table:
First you must Choose the size of poker table you want to build. Many of my customers want a table that is 8 feet long and 4 feet wide that can fit 10 or 12 people, including a dealer, comfortably. Many customers with a dedicated room for a poker table, or bars that hold tournaments also prefer this size. However, if you are the weekend player, and you need to store your table out of sight, you may want to build a table 7 feet long and 44 inches wide.
Once you have made a decision on the size of poker table you want to build, you will need to determine the radius of the ends. For the standard circle ends, The width of your table divided by two will determine your radius. A 44" wide table will have a 22" Radius and a 48" table will have a 24" radius.
The following poker table plans will guide you step by step to build your own poker table that seats eight with a racetrack and jumbo drop in drink cup holders measuring 44" wide by 84" long
Materials required:
2 each sheets of 3/4"X4'X8' plywood (one sheet must have a sanded finish or choose Maple, Birch, Oak,etc.)
1 each sheet of 5/8"X4'X8' of wood for the infield surface. This can be a less expensive piece of wood. This will give you an 1/8" higher infield surface. You can choose a 1/2"X4'8' if you want a completely flush playing surface between the infield surface and the racetrack.
1 Pair of folding table replacement legs.
1 Small box of 1 1/4" wood screws.
1 Small box of 1" wood screws.
16 each 1/4" "T Nuts" (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1" X 1/4" bolts (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1/4" washers (used to install the table legs)
16 each 1/4" loc washers (used to install the table legs)
2 Each 6" handles (if you plan on installing cup holders you will not need handles)
1 30"X80" sheet of Volara closed cell foam (used for infield cushion) Automotive headliner may be used instead Volara if you want a softer, less dense playing surface.
1 piece of 30"X80" of cloth (used for the infield cloth) AVOID FELT! The cards will not slide. Felt will ball up very quick and become unsightly.
3 yards of vinyl (for the rail covering)
1 1"X4'X8' sheet of high density foam (used for rail padding) You can use a 1"X2'X7' if you cut it into three 8" strips.
Consumables Required:
1 each can of spray adhesive (I prefer 3M Super 77)
1 each bottle of wood glue
Small box of 5/16" staples
Sand Paper: 180, 220, and 320 grit
1 each tack cloth
1 pint of black (ebony) stain
1 pint of stain, your choice of color
1 quart of clear finish
5 pack of razor blades
2 china bristle paint brushes
1 quart of mineral spirits
1 roll of quality paper towels
1 bag of cotton cloths (for polishing)
Carpenters Pencil
Tools Required:
3/8 Chuck Drill
Drill bit set and screw tips
1/2" Chuck Drill and 3 5/8" Hole Saw (for jumbo drop in drink cup holders)
Jig Saw
Circular Saw
Router with a 1" outside round bit
Tape Measure
Chalk Line, Level or Straight Edge
Square
Clamps
Saw Horses
Electric Sander
Staple Gun or Fine Wire Tacker
Shears
Belt Sander
Hammer
WARNING: Always use proper safety gear while using tools and chemicals including but not limited to safety goggled, gloves hearing protection, face shield, respirator, etc,
WARNING: Always follow the tooling manufacture recommendations and chemical company's safety precautions
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Place the two 3/4"X4'X8' sheets of plywood together on a bench or saw horses and align them with each other. The racetrack sheet should be on the top with the finish (nice) side facing up. The base sheet should be on the bottom with the nice side facing down. |
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Measure the distance of the radius from the side of the table on each end. In this case we are building a table 44" X 84" so the radius is 22" Lightly (do not press to hard or you will be able to see your line after the stain is applied) draw a pencil line 22" from the side of the sheet from end to end. This will be the center line of your table. |
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Make a radius tool (top in this photo) to draw the radius ends. I used a piece of wood with a finish nail in one end as the pivot point and a pencil at the other to mark the radius. For this table the pencil tip should be 22" from the pivot nail for the end radius and 12" from the pencil tip to the pivot nail for the racetrack radius. Make the rail tool (bottom in this photo). This tool is essentially made the same except the nails are not a pivot point, they are a guide. The distance from the pencil tip is 1 1/2" and 4" This tool is used to mark the rail measurements. |
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Place the radius tool with the pivot point finish nail at 22" from the pencil on the mark you made 22" from the end on the center line and hammer it into the wood sheet. Draw the radius. Be sure to draw a full 180 degrees. To find the pivot point for the opposite end, measure along the centerline of the table from the edge of the radius you just marked along the center line and place a pencil mark at 62" inches. |
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Place the radius tool with the pivot point finish nail at 22" from the pencil on the mark you made at 62" on the center line. Hammer the nail into the race track sheet and draw the radius. Be sure you draw a full 180 degrees. Use a straight edge or chalk line, connect both of the radius together and mark or draw a pencil line along the entire length. At this point you will be able to see the final size of your table. Check your measurements one more time. the table should be 44" wide and 84" long. |
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Time to make your first cut. Start with cutting off the excess width using a circular saw. |
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Next cut out each radius on each end where you marked it using a jig saw. |
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After the cuts are made they may be cleaned up with a router or belt sander if needed. |
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Here is a quick look at the table after the cuts are made.
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Place a mark on each sheet on one with a line and arrow facing up so you will know how the sheets will go together later. |
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Place the radius tool in the same 22" pivot point you used to mark the ends of the table. This time the measurement on the radius tool from the pencil to the pivot point finish nail will be 12". Run the radius tool and mark (lightly) with the pencil around the entire diameter of the racetrack ends. This will give you a 6" racetrack when the rail is installed. Repeat this procedure for the opposite end. |
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Once the radius is marked on each end, use a level or a strait edge to line up the two ends and mark the line with a pencil. CAUTION: DO NOT MAKE THE CUT AT THIS TIME. |
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Position your drink cup holders in the positions you want them. The Jumbo cups seen here must be centered at 3" from the inside racetrack line. This measurement will not look correct although the cups will be centered after the rail is installed. Lightly trace around the cups. |
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Mark the center of the holes. |
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If you have a 3 5/8" hole saw, place the pilot bit on the center of the mark use a 1/2" chuck drill to cut out each hole through both the racetrack and base. |
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If you plan on using a jig saw to cut your holes, drill a pilot hole and carefully cut out the holes. Clean up the cuts with sand paper.
NOTE: Make your cuts just on the inside of your line. |
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Remove the screws that were installed in the base sheet of wood, Remove the racetrack sheet and place it aside. |
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With the Racetrack sheet removed from the top of the base sheet. Measure and mark with the rail tool a 4" line around the entire diameter of the base sheet. This 4" area will be the top piece of the rail. The pencil point should be four inches from the finish nail. |
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Drill a pilot hole on the inside edge (not in the 4" marked area) just large enough for the jig saw blade to fit through. |
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Carefully cut along the line. It will be necessary to support the 4" rail piece with clamps as you cut around the table. |
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Mark the End of the Base Sheet with an arrow pointing up so you will know which direction the rail piece goes later. Set the rail top piece and the base sheet aside. |
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Place the racetrack sheet on the saw horses with the finish side up. NOTE: The race track infield cut will be the most critical cut on your table. Take the extra time to make this cut as straight and clean as possible. The entire cut will be visible when your table is complete. Drill a pilot hole on the inside edge (not in the racetrack area) just large enough for the jig saw blade to fit through. Carefully cut on the line. |
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NOTE: Pay close attention at the location of the pilot hole. The pilot hole should be on the center piece NOT ON THE RACE TRACK. |
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View of the race track cut out. |
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With the race track sheet on the bench or saw horses with the finish side up. Measure and mark with a pencil 1 1/2" around the entire diameter of the racetrack. This will become the bottom part of the rail. Use the rail tool you made to mark this area with a finish nail located 1 1/2" from the pencil point. |
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Drill a pilot hole on the inside edge, this pilot hole will not bee seen when the table is assembled. Cut out the 1 1/2" band on the line around the entire diameter. It will be necessary to support the rail piece with clamps as you cut around the table. Trim the outside diameter of the racetrack with a belt sander removing approximately 1/16" of material. NOTE: It will be necessary to sand the outside diameter of the race track with a belt sander to allow the rail to fit on the racetrack a little easier. |
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Mark the end with an arrow pointing up. Set the bottom rail piece aside. |
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Place the race track over the 5/8"X4'X8' infield sheet. Trace a pencil line around the racetrack inside diameter on to the infield sheet. Be sure to place a "X" on the infield sheet at the end of the racetrack that is marked with an arrow. Set the racetrack aside. |
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Cut carefully on the outer edge of the line and carefully sand the edge of the infield sheet to fit. |
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Place the racetrack over the infield sheet. Trim the infield sheet so it fits in the racetrack with about a 1/32" gap by sanding the infield sheet. CAUTION: DO NOT SAND TO MUCH OFF THE INFIELD SHEET. SAND ONLY A SMALL AMOUNT AT A TIME AND KEEP CHECKING THE GAP. |
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The "X" is on the end of the racetrack marked with the arrow. The race track is 1/8" higher than the infield sheet. When the Volara foam is installed, the infield playing surface will be 1/8" higher than the race track. |
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Place the top (4") piece of the rail on the saw horses with the top side facing down. Place the bottom (1 1/2") piece of the rail with the top side facing down on the 4" piece. be sure to align the marks you made earlier. |
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Trace a pencil line around the inner diameter of the 1 1/2" rail piece. This line is so you will know where to put the wood glue. If you plan on using a finish nail gun or air stapler, skip this step. Place clamps around the two pieces. Drill pilot holes about every eight inches and countersink them. Remove the clamps and set the 1 1/2" rail piece aside. |
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Wood glue will dry very quick, you must work fast during this step. Run a bead of wood glue in the 1 1/2" area you just marked. install the 1 1/2 rail piece back on the top rail piece and clamp into position. Begin installing 1 1/4" wood screws (or use a nail gun or air stapler) at each side in the center and at each end. Install the screws using a star pattern. |
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After all the screws are installed remove the clamps and clean off any excess glue and sand the outer diameter joint smooth. |
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Using a 1" outside round bit, router the bottom outside diameter edge of the rail. In this picture, you can see I used an air stapler instead of screws. Turn the rail over so the top side is facing up. Router the top outside edge with the 1" outside round bit. |
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Router the top inside edge with the 1"outside round bit. Place the rail aside. |
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Place the base sheet on the saw horses with the top side facing down. Place the legs on the base and align them centering the legs on the base sheet. |
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Place the base sheet on the saw horses with the top side facing down. place the legs on the base and align them centering the legs on the base sheet. Using a drywall square, line up the hinge points on the legs. If the legs are not square the table will wobble. |
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Using a 1/4" drill bit, drill through the leg attachment points and the base sheet. Be sure to temporary install the bolts or screws so the legs do not shift as you are drilling the other holes. After all the holes are drilled, remove the legs. and flip the base over so the top side is up. |
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After you flip the base sheet over so the top side is facing up. Drill using a 3/4" paddle bit about 1/8" down so the "T-Nuts" will sit flush with the base sheet. Drill about a 1/4" deep into the holes using a 3/8" drill bit, drill from the top of the base to allow the "T Nuts" to be installed. Hammer the "T-Nuts" into place. |
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Flip the base back over so the top side is facing down. Apply a coat of black (Ebony) stain on the entire bottom surface of the base sheet (No Picture). Place the base sheet aside and let it dry. Place the race track sheet (This picture is the race track sheet) with the bottom surface up. Apply the Black stain only around the area that will be exposed when the table is assembled. CAUTION: DO NOT GET THE STAIN ON THE SIDES OF THE TABLE OR THE CUP HOLES. |
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After the stain has dried. Put the base sheet on the saw horses with the bottom side facing up. Install the legs with the 1/4" bolts using washers and lock washers as shown. Do not over tighten the bolts. If you have installed drink cup holders you can skip this step. The drink cup holders can easily be removed and your table can be moved holding onto the hole cut outs. Iinstall handles at the center of each end. The handles will make it much easier to move your table. Extend the legs and place the table on the legs. |
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Look closely at the "T-Nuts" and bolts. If the bolts are sticking up past the top surface you will have to grind them flush to the T Nuts. Use your electric sander to "scuff" the top surface of the base sheet to smooth any rough areas that might keep the infield sheet from laying flat on the surface. Clean the base with a broom or shop air. NOTE: If you look closely at this picture you can see the grind marks on the bolts and the wood |
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Place the Race Track on the base and insert the drink cup holders to align the racetrack and the base. Place the infield piece on the base and center the gaps around the entire diameter. If you made all your cuts well their should be about a 1/16" gap around the entire edge. If you did not install cup holders you will have to center the infield sheet to the base using a tape measure. Install a couple of 1" wood screws through the infield sheet into the base to hold the hold it in place for the next step. |
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Drill a pilot hole about every eight to ten inches and countersink each hole. Make sure the countersink is deep enough so the screw head is just below the surface. |
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Install 1" wood screws in the holes. Be sure all the screw heads are just below the surface and have not gone through the bottom side of the base. Sand the infield sheet smooth. This will also assist the adhesive bond from the wood to the Volara foam. |
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Sand the racetrack with an electric sander, I start with 180 grit, then 220 grit and finish with 320 grit. Clean the wood between each grit with a brush or shop air. Wipe the wood with a cloth dampened with Mineral Spirits between grit changes. Doing this will draw out the grain in the wood and will be more defined when you apply the stain. |
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Clean the wood thoroughly and wipe with a Tack Cloth. Apply a coat of wood sealer and let it soak in, wipe off any extra after fifteen minutes. Let the wood dry for about an hour.
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Clean and wipe the wood with a tack cloth. Apply the first coat of stain using a china bristle brush. Follow the stain manufactures directions. |
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Scuff the surface between coats with steel wool. Apply as many coats as needed until the desired color is reached. |
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After the stain has fully dried. Apply a thin coat of clear. Scuff with steel wool and clean between coats. Be sure to wipe with a tack cloth before applying each coat. Apply a minimum of three coats. If you need an extra durable finish you might consider using Helmsman Spar Finish. |
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After you are satisfied with the coverage of the clear, polish the racetrack using finishing wax. You can see the difference between the previous picture and this one after the finishing wax is applied.
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Place the rail with the top side up on a work bench. Wipe the rail clean with Isopropyl Alcohol or a cloth dampened with soap and water to remove any dust.
I prefer to use a single piece of foam for the rail padding. You can use foam strips if you choose. If you use strips you will need to cut them in 8 inch wide strips. Most fabric stores sell foam in 24 inch wide sections. This piece of rail foam is one I had purchased from Lynn at Poker Supplies Ltd. a while back. The price was right and it saves time. |
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This view is from the bottom looking up. If you are not starting with a full sheet of foam, make sure you have the enough foam on each side of the rail to completely cover the wood. Remember the inside diameter is 3/4" thick and the rail is 4" wide and the outside diameter is 1 1/2" thick. |
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Align your foam on the rail. Lift the foam on one end and apply the spray adhesive (3M Super 77) on the foam and the rail. I usually work with a quarter area at a time. |
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Press the foam down on the wood after about 30 seconds. Use the same process for the rest of the rail foam. |
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Turn the rail over so the foam is on the bottom. Mark the inside diameter about 1 1/4 inches (minimum) from the wood with a marker. |
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Mark the outer diameter of the foam about 2 3/4 inches. |
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Trim the foam on your marks with a turkey carver on the lines you marked. |
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Remove the rail from the work area and lay the fabric face down. Place the rail with the foam down on the fabric. A fine wire tacker may be used in place of a stapler. A fine wire tacker is easier to use than a staple gun and leaves a cleaner look. This tool can be purchased from Your Auto Trim You can use a regular or electric staple gun but its going to be some work. |
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Start in the center on one side and pull the fabric tight. Place a few staples where you are pulling. Only place a few staples in the area you are pulling. Pull right next the area and place a few more staples. Repeat the same procedure on the opposite side. Be sure to pull the fabric as tight as possible, The tighter the better. Work your way around the rail from the center of the sides to the beginning of the radius end. Your Staples should be placed right on the edge of the rail 1 1/2 inch piece. |
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Pull the vinyl tight and place three or four staples at the end and at 45 degrees. |
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Pull the vinyl tight and place three or four staples between the areas that were stapled in the previous step. |
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Again, pull the vinyl tight and place three or four staples between the areas that were stapled in the previous step. |
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As you pull the vinyl tight, the wrinkles will go away. |
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No wrinkles in the outside end radius. Now run a second row of staples around the entire outside diameter on the rail. |
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Draw a rectangle piece in the center of the fabric allowing about 6 to 8 inches of material to work with on the sides. The ends of the rectangle should be located where the radius begins. Draw strips beginning from the center of the cutout to 3 inches from the foam on the radius ends. |
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Cut the rectangle piece out that was drawn in the previous step. Cut out the strips on the radius ends. |
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Start in the center of one side and pull the vinyl tight. Install a few staples. Work your way to the end. Be consistent when you are pulling to keep the rail shape the same. Repeat the same procedure for the opposite end. |
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Begin pulling and stapling again every other cut strip. |
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After all of the staples are installed. Carefully trim off the excess material with a razor blade. |
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Finished and trimmed rail. NOTE: If you used a staple gun make sure the staples are not sticking up at all or they will scratch your table! You can use a hammer and a punch to sink the staples in deeper if needed. |
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Clean the infield surface with a cloth dampened with water or isopropyl alcohol prior to installing the Volara Foam.
Carefully pull one end towards the center. Spray the wood surface and the back side of the Volara foam with spray adhesive. Start at the center and lightly press the foam down rubbing back and forth width wise from the center to the end. Repeat this step for the other end. |
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Carefully trim the excess material using a razor blade. Be sure to hold the razor blade completely vertical. Take your time in this step and change to a new blade if it becomes dull. |
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Wipe the surface with a tack cloth. The Volara has allot of static electricity. This will remove any particles that are clinging to the foam prior to installing the cloth. |
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Line up your cloth on the infield surface. |
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Carefully pull one end towards the center. Spray the foam and the back side of the cloth with spray adhesive. Start at the center and lightly press the cloth down rubbing back and forth width wise from the center to the end. Repeat this step for the other end. |
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Staple the cloth to the side of the infield wood sheet along the entire diameter. Place a staple about every inch. Trim the excess cloth just below the staples. |
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Drill two rows of 1/8" pilot holes from the top of the table base approximately every foot. You will need to drill the inside row of screws about an 1" from the infield sheet and the outside row about 1" from the edge of the base. |
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This diagram shows the approximate hole locations. |
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Countersink the holes on the bottom of the base sheet. Install 1 1/4" wood screws from the bottom of the base into the racetrack. |
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Place the rail on the table, I prefer not to permanently install the rail. Your rail can be easily damaged if it is attached to the table if you move your table around frequently. Install the drink cup holders Invite your friends over and enjoy being the envy of everyone who plays on your new table. |
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This customer chose the Jumbo Brass Cup Holders after he saw the table with them. Here is the final product. |
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